One of the most common braking problems that you may experience is when your steering wheel starts to pull to the right or left side as you step on the brake pedal. In rare instances, the steering wheel may pull from one side to the next.
Let’s look at the most common causes of a vehicle that pulls to only one side (right or left) when applying the brakes and how to properly diagnose the issue.
Rule This Out First – The “Road Crown” Effect
Before getting into brake problems, you should understand that most roads are built with a slight slope from the center to the edges.
This design, called “road crown,” helps water drain off the road surface. This minor (2-4%) slope can make your car naturally drift toward the right side of the road.
Normal Behavior:
- If your car only pulls slightly to the right on most roads, this is likely normal
- The pull should be gentle and consistent
- Switching lanes should change how the pull feels
- The pull should happen whether you’re braking or not
Something’s Wrong:
- Pulls sharply when braking
- Pulls to the left
- Pulls only when you apply the brakes
- Shows different behavior on flat surfaces like parking lots
If these apply, you likely have one of the brake-related issues discussed below.
Reasons Your Car Pulls to One Side When Braking
#1. Stuck Brake Caliper.
One of the most common causes of a car pulling to one side during braking is a stuck caliper. When it gets stuck, the caliper doesn’t properly release after you take your foot off the brake pedal, causing the brake pads to drag on one side.
This creates uneven braking force between the left and right wheels. Often, your brake pedal might feel harder to push than usual. A stuck caliper usually needs replacement rather than repair, as internal corrosion or seized parts are usually the root cause.
#2. Worn Brake Pads.
Right and left brake pads on the same axle should wear at a similar rate, but sometimes, one side can wear faster than the other. When this happens, the thicker brake pads on one side may “grab” more than the thinner ones on the other side, causing your car to pull.
This uneven pad wear often points to other problems like a stuck caliper or misaligned brake components. If you hear squealing or grinding when braking, or feel vibration in the brake pedal itself, worn brake pads could be the problem.
#3. Uneven Tire Pressure.
While this cause will mainly be apparent during accelerating or cruising, when you have a tire that’s significantly lower in air pressure than the opposite tire on the same axle, your car will naturally pull toward that side. This will be most noticeable on a front tire.
The difference in pressure changes the tire’s diameter and rolling speed, effectively throwing off your car’s alignment.
It’s similar to when you get a flat and swap it with a “donut” (space saver) tire. Your vehicle will have a tendency to slightly veer toward that side while driving and braking.
A simple check with a tire pressure gauge and adjustment to your manufacturer’s recommended PSI can often fix this issue.
#4. Seized Brake Hardware and Slide Pins.
Brake calipers slide on pins that allow them to move as your brake pads contact the rotor. When these slide pins get corroded or lose lubrication, they can stick, preventing the caliper from moving properly.
This makes your brake pads wear unevenly and causes inconsistent brake force between sides.
It’s common to notice a slight dragging sound even when not braking. Regular brake maintenance includes lubricating these components, but in many cases, this step is overlooked.
#5. Warped or Unevenly Worn Rotors.
Brake rotors need to be flat and smooth for braking to work as intended. When a rotor becomes warped or develops uneven wear patterns, it creates inconsistent contact with the brake pads.
This varying contact means one side of your car has more stopping power than the other, causing the pull.
Depending on the severity of rotor wear, you may feel pulsing in your brake pedal or steering wheel when braking.
Rotors typically warp from excessive heat (like riding your brakes down a long hill) or can wear unevenly if they’re not replaced in pairs. Sometimes rotors can be resurfaced, but replacement is often necessary.
#6. Worn Suspension Parts.
Your car’s suspension system plays a major role while braking because the vehicle’s weight shifts forward when you slow down. Worn components like control arm bushings can allow excess movement in the suspension, leading to a pull to one side under braking.
Bad tie rods, ball joints, or strut mounts can create similar issues. Unlike most brake-related pulls, suspension problems often cause additional symptoms like clunking noises over bumps, uneven tire wear, or a steering wheel that’s not centered when driving straight.
#7. Collapsed Brake Hose.
A rubber brake hose might look fine on the outside but have internal damage that restricts brake fluid flow. When this happens, your car typically pulls for a few seconds after applying the brakes, then returns to normal.
In some cases, the damaged hose acts like a one-way valve by allowing fluid to flow to the caliper but not letting it return to the master cylinder. This keeps the brake partially applied even after you release the pedal.
While rubber hoses deteriorate from the inside out, upgrading to stainless steel brake lines can prevent this issue since they’re much more resistant to internal collapse and deterioration.
#8. Faulty Wheel Bearing.
A wheel bearing with too much play can cause the brake rotor to become misaligned with the caliper. When this happens, the brake pads don’t make full contact with the rotor surface like they should.
You’ll likely hear a humming or growling noise that changes pitch with vehicle speed, and the sound often gets louder during turns. The uneven brake pad contact caused by the loose bearing creates different braking forces between sides, resulting in the pull.
#9. Mismatched Brake Pads.
Different brake pad materials have different friction levels. If you mix pad types on opposite sides of your car, it’s like wearing one tennis shoe and one dress shoe.
This usually happens when someone replaces pads on only one side of the vehicle (please don’t do this).
Even if the pads look similar, different friction materials will create uneven braking force. Always replace brake pads in axle pairs (both front or both rear) using the same type and brand of pad on each side.
Is It Safe to Drive? (Quick Brake Pull Assessment)
Pull over to a safe location and check these points to determine your next steps:
Immediate Professional Help Needed If:
- Your car pulls sharply or suddenly during braking
- The pulling is accompanied by grinding or squealing noises
- Your brake warning light is on
- The brake pedal feels soft or spongy
- You notice a burning smell during braking
- There are any brake fluid leaks
Safe to Drive Carefully to a Shop If:
- The pull is gradual and predictable
- You can still stop effectively
- The brake pedal feels normal
- Your car tracks straight when not braking
- There are no unusual noises
- The pull only happens during light braking
Simple Checks You Can Do Now:
- Check your tire pressures on all four wheels
- Look for obvious brake fluid leaks under the car
- Inspect wheel rims for brake dust buildup (much more on one side indicates a stuck caliper)
- Test the pull on a flat parking lot to rule out road crown effect
- Note if the pull changes with brake pedal pressure or vehicle speed